Saturday 2nd October 1954
Needless to say I didnít bathe, but kept in the shade as much as possible. Diana
wailed at not having brought her swim suit. She is very dark, and quickly
acquired a lovely tan. I, who never tan at all, go about looking like a ghost
among all the beautiful brown skins. All our Venus crowd were turning a richer
colour every time I met them, whereas the heat, not to mention Madeira fever,
made me more pallid even than my usual.
On the way back from the Lido we stopped at an enchanting shop opposite Rieds
Hotel, and spent a long time looking at embroideries, baskets, hats etc.
Eventually I bought a really exquisite blouse for the equivalent of only 35/-
and a table runner, and Diana made several purchases as well.
I rested all the afternoon as the heat was terrific. Janet came round after
dinner and half a dozen of us hired a car and went out to the fishing village of
Camara de Lobos.
There we went to a little inn which was in the pure native
style; the only illumination was from candles on the tables stuck in holders
made from the jaw bones of cat fish. The little bar was made of part of a
fishing boat, and the walls were festooned with nets. There was a quaint little plunky-tunky orchestra, and a fisher boy sang and danced between the tables,
with a little girl of about twelve. The lad sang Portuguese songs in the same
queer rather raucous, but fascinating type of voice we had heard singing in La
Paloma, in Mollendo, Peru. It was packed out with English visitors, but the
atmosphere was so homely and free and easy that it was really delightful. They
passed round the most fantastic straw hat for everyone to wear, and the air got
thicker and thicker with cigarette smoke and candle fumes, and more and more
people kept crowding in, till there was barely a square yard for the boy and
girl to dance. They both danced barefoot, and eventually one of our honeymoon
brides kicked off her shoes and danced with the boy amid great applause. It was
good fun, as no one got tight, but everyone was absolutely full of joie de vivre
and bonhomie etc.!
It was very late before we got home.