My initial experience with Triggertrap.
Good afternoon hello at tri.gg
Thanks for the prompt dispatch of MD3-N3. Initially the device did not work. But, after some tribulations, it does now. It works, and very well too!
Please read on...
Canon 5D mk II
Triggertrap version 3.0.0
150ms trigger pulse length.
Select "Simple Cable Release". The simplest operation - no joy.
With a electronics test set I measure left and right audio cable continuity with the dongle. Each read 33nF. So the audio cable seems OK.
Shutter release cable - 7mA drain between both the sleeve and ring; and the sleeve and tip. Camera responds with shutter and auto focus operation. Camera cable seems OK.
(Note the evil spirits in the cable - it passed my test - just as it would have done several months ago in China. Read on!)
I remove the silly flap from the back of the mobile phone and connect everything up. It works! I can fire single shots in "Simple Cable Release" mode.
I reattach the silly flap back on the phone.
Good! The fault can be recreated. I have found the fault. Categorically definitively and repeatedly. I am so utterly proud of my "Mr Fixit" reputation!
I use a sharp scalpel to remove a 1mm sliver of plastic from 3.5 mm audio jack plug. The plug now beds in nicely when inserted into the phone.
I set the software to "Simple Cable Release" and I click away..."Click" "Click" "Click"
I also make several noises similar to the "Life of Brian" mad jailers in this video. [About 28 seconds into the clip.]
While in "Bulb Mode" and "Press and lock" I discover a dodgy connection with the 3.5 mm jack to the camera cable. We have a gold plated plug - but a tin plated socket. That's no good! Rotating the plug within the socket causing the shutter to fire intermittently.
"Must be some flux in there!" I spit.
"Tarnish?" I ponder.
"Just a crappy connector!" I conclude.
It's not worth my time faffing and sending everything back to Triggertrap - that won't fix the design fault. (And what'd be fun in that? And I like chasing multiple intermittent faults in consumer electronics. It arouses me!)
I retrieve the scalpel that's now lodged itself in my left leg and open up the "dongle".
One hot soldering iron later and I've removed the 3.5mm socket from the PCB. (I can do this - I have several decades of working with electronics. I have the nack.)
I dismantle the cable running to the 3.5mm plug so that I can get the wiring colours for the tip (red), ring (white), sleeve (yellow). The red wire is broken! That wire feeds the tip and shutter. Broken when the moulded plug was made! There's a strand of copper just about making the connection.
I solder the wires straight to PCB, then reassemble.
With the camera in "Bulb" and software in "Press and lock"
it works! Wonderful! I
can bash the whole assembly! The shutter stays open! Rock solid!
Marvellous! "Click" "Cluunnk" "Click" "Cluunnk" "Click" "Cluunnk"
So it's working. Maybe the initial fault wasn't a fault, just the intermittent second fault fooling me. Laughing at me. Anyway it works!
Test the cable continuity/resistance with several amps flowing. (Not too much so that connectors melt!) This will help identify poorly made moulded connectors.
Don't mix tin and gold connectors.
Check 3.5 audio jack clearence with mobile phone cases.
When using "Press and Release" - make sure the camera is in bulb mode. (For the Canon 5d mk II rotate the camera's settings dial to "B".)
I take it, a nephew, the Canon 5D mk II and the Samsung S5 to a local testing ground at Pitsford Reservoir. It's a local picturesque spot with birds, water, cars, people, derelict barns to shoot.
I placed the TraggerTrap App into Timelapse 1 second repeat.
"Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk dd chunkk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk dd chunkk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk"
Irregular firing - Yes, I had an incoming call!
What did I learn?
Put the phone into Airplane Mode. (No, the phone doesn't start flying.) Having the phone's transmitter switched off will:
I need to investigate and prove the last two points above, but Airplane Mode seems a good rule to follow.
You probably don't need the highest RAW resolution that the camera can provide - use a low res jpg format.
Some erratic timelapses...
Northampton to Leominster (20 second intervals => 30 fps F11 Aperture priority RAW ISO 1600 )
Leominster to M42 Services (10 second intervals => 30 fps F11 Aperture priority RAW ISO 1600 )
M42 Services to Northampton (10 second intervals => 30 fps F4 1/100 JPG ISO 6400 ))
Persuading Photoshop to perform a pre-defined set series of adjustments to a directory of RAW images does not generate consistent results. Applying the same black, fill light and exposure to the files seems inconsistent. The constant twilight background should be the same between each frame. The dynamic content of each image affects the static parts of the image: the sky brightens and dims.
Another tool is required!
Zeitraffer is a simple tool for creating a time-lapse movie from
Select a directory containing image files (JPEG, TIFF, PNG, BMP or RAW), and press the Export button to make a movie. Options are available such as file order, frame rate, output size and file format.
I use the app to create a 30 fps example movie from 89 images.
30 fps was the Zeitraffer default. Maybe 24 fps is adequate.
The Canon time stamps image files with a resolution of 2 seconds.
Below I'm using "forfiles" under Windows 8...
e:\harvest>forfiles /m *.cr2 /c "cmd /c echo @file @ftime"
Page last updated 4th January 2015